The sun rose
unexpectedly early this morning, out here on the road. A big and bright yellow light woke
me up from my slump only ticks away from six a.m. The Greyhound kept pushing
through Ohio and Indiana all night long through the dark
roads. And now this sunlight which is a welcome relief to my sleepy eyes.
Crossing the Illinois/Wisconsin border the landscape is fast becoming the
picture perfect image of farmland America . Cows grazing
in the green pastures, cornfields rising to the blue cloudless skies it seems,
red barns, old tractors and big combines rusting under this imperceptible early
morning mist.
It’s a shock when we finally stop for
breakfast just off I-94 outside of Tomah. I’m disappointed that we had to stop
at all and even more so when I find that the impromptu rest stop is nothing
more than a McDonald’s. In the parking lot across from it there’s a few semis
lined next to each other. A truck driver brushes his teeth outside his rig and
another one emerges from his truck and lights a cigarette. In the McDonald’s
parking lot most of the cars have out of state license plates from far away as Oregon or West
Virginia . Most of the Greyhound travelers rush to the
fast food joint, surely lured by the greasy smell hanging in the air of frying
processed meat and salty fries and the promise of free refills in their favorite
sugary sodas. A few stand outside the door finishing their cigarettes in a
hurry so they can go straight from one addiction to another one without losing
a beat. I prefer to stand outside in the parking lot and take in this
refreshing morning breeze. The traffic on I-94 oozes by leaving a scent of
gasoline in the air. A family steps out of McDonald’s and head to their compact
car. The young kid, probably eight or ten years old sports a hat that resembles
a block of cheese. His parents, in their late thirties, both wear big Green Bay
Packers jerseys and caps. I can see from
their license plate that they’re from Pennsylvania . A few of my fellow Greyhound
travelers emerge from McDonald’s, their breakfast fix inside a brown paper bag,
drops of fat staining the bags, and take to the bus. I hear in the distance the
low roar of a two-engine plane approaching. I look up to try to locate it but
as soon as I do, the sun forces my eyes shut and I can only hear it
disappearing into the crop fields to the north.
I head to McDonald’s intent on using
the bathroom and getting a coffee to go. The place is still packed with college
students from the bus using their laptops, taking advantage of the free Wi-Fi
the restaurant so proudly advertises on its billboard. In the restrooms, John Denver ’s
“Take Me Home, Country Roads” is playing on the speakers. I remember growing up
in the country hearing that song ad nauseam on the radio as I was doing my
homework. I step out of the restrooms and the restaurant has suddenly cleared.
I decide to take my coffee right here and sit by the window. Outside, my fellow
travelers stand by the bus, smoking or taking big gulps from their big soda
jugs. A Harley Davidson gets off the I-94 ramp and heads to the McDonald’s
parking lot. I follow the couple who ride it as they step out of the bike and
take their helmets. They’re both in their early thirties. They take their
helmets by their arms and head to the McDonald’s. They seem to me to be
bickering about something. The man has long hair and beard and wears several
tattoos of Harleys and Southern Rock band names in his arms and neck. He is
dressed all in black and leather and conceals just enough of his contempt
behind his shades. The woman has at least three visible rings, in her navel,
tongue and nose. She wears denim jeans and cowboy boots and a faded Jewel On
Tour T-Shirt from 2001. I’m about finished with my coffee and my bus seems to
be ready to leave, so I make my way to the counter again to get another coffee
to go and stand behind the biker couple. I overhear the woman whisper in the
man’s ear “You know I love you no matter what right?” to which the man responds
“I just wish sometimes you’d showed it a little bit more that’s all”. They take
their order and head out. I get my coffee to go and head out behind them and
catch a glimpse of a few words tattooed in the man’s neck that reads “Live,
travel, adventure, bless, and don’t be sorry”. I stand by the bus sipping from
my coffee cup and overhear the bike couple. “I don’t know why you never liked
my family. They always supported us” the woman says. “I don’t think I’m ready
to give up the dream juts yet” the man responds. “Just give it a shot, will
you? We’re at the end of our rope as it is. Give it six months. We’ll get
settled in and find a way out, I promise you” the woman seems to beg. “I don’t
think I’m cut up to be living in a farm. I’m a city boy, always was, always
will be” the man insists. “This is an opportunity to start again. You can work
with my dad on the farm. You can settle up shop in town, there’s a lot of need
for a mechanic in that part of the country. I can take a part time job in town,
maybe take a workshop or something. We will be together, that’s what’s
important. And you know, my parents aren’t getting any younger either. They’re
both turning seventy next year. They’re at the end of their rope. This will
mean the world to them”.
The bus driver calls up to board the
bus and the biker couple kiss passionately as I board the bus and take my seat.
The bus drives away as the biker couple are still locked in an endless embrace.
The bus begins its slow uphill drive north towards the Minnesota border and the landscape begins to
shift drastically again. An early October snow starts falling on the empty and
desolate prairieland and my heart starts yearning for home like never before.
As we go through the town of Black River Falls the forest
starts to get thicker and thicker and the sunlight can barely get through.
Still I keep my sleepy eyes open in the lookout for a place I know I will
recognize. As we approach Eau Claire the biker couple race
pass the bus. The woman clinging to the man’s waist as hard as she can. We take
on speed pass Eau Claire
on I-94 and the biker couple get off and merge into Highway 53 that will take
them straight up north into rural Wisconsin .
John Denver’s “Take Me Home, Country Roads” starts echoing in my mind as I
watch the Harley Davidson disappearing fast on the horizon, the lines of the
song “And drivin’ down the road I get a feelin’ that I should have been home
yesterday” suddenly taking on a whole new meaning.
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