On the north side of town, past the railroad tracks
you can still feel the pulse of old Livingston, railroad town. The Northern
Pacific Railroad shops are a statement to that as are the 100-year old
vernacular styled cottages and unadorned homes. The old school which was built
out of concrete block was converted not long ago into a community museum. This
is where I meet Robert, a 90-year old railroad aficionado as he’s leaving the
building. Wearing overalls and a brakeman’s hat, he sports a wide and generous
grin to anyone who crosses his path. He’s here to teach anyone who wants to
hear it, about how Livingston was once a thriving railroad town. With a
railroad pocket watch that he keeps looking at impulsively and then putting it away every time he hears
a distant freight train moan, he tells me he arrived
here in the late 1940’s after serving in World War II. He worked as a drummer
for awhile before settling in here. Images of a slicked back haired Gene Kupra
comes to mind. But he explains he was a different kind of drummer. They were
traveling businessmen, who were constantly riding the rails, stopping in towns
large and small, to drum up business for their companies, hence the name
“drummer”. His liquored-up eyes shine when he starts telling me the tales of
yesteryear. How he found a job working for the railroad as a watchman. How he
fell in love in the spring of 1955 to a first grade teacher that taught in the
old school since turned museum for which he volunteers. His wrinkled face
saddens and his hands start trembling as he mentions his wife’s passing in
1999. He looks at his railroad pocket watch again for a few seconds and takes a
deep breath before putting the pocket watch in his overall’s pocket. We start
walking south in the direction of the tracks. The smell of burnt rubber, coal
fire and diesel becomes more prominent. He takes to the top of a hill near the
Northern Pacific Railroad shops and in silence directs me to look straight
ahead. From where we stand we can see the Mountains capped with snow, the
Yellowstone river flowing south, the outline of town with the railroad that
built this town from the ground and we almost can hear the sound of semis
whining by on the interstate. The sun is setting just to the west of the mountains
and it gives the sky a blue and orange hue. A freight train moans in the
distance. Robert looks at his railroad pocket watch one more time. From my
vantage point next to him I can see why he keeps looking at the watch. A
picture of his wife is engraved in the watch’s dial. This time he holds the
watch in his hands. I don’t need more than this to know that this must be his
daily end-of-the day ritual for a long time now. He squints his eyes at the
Mountains, still holding the pocket watch in his right hand, almost squeezing
it for dear life and I swear I can notice a glimpse of a single tear rolling
down his right eye. Or maybe that’s just me.
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